We all know about the place, called Phulia, especially who involved in the saree market. In order to learn more about the current trends and the technique of creating Jamdani sarees, I had the honour of touring the busy Phulia market in West Bengal yesterday. Being the proprietor of Parthi, a clothing company that focusses on distinctive and handcrafted textiles, it was enlightening and not only provided me a better understanding of the complex art, but it also enabled me to establish connections with regional craftspeople who are still upholding this age-old custom.
Process of Making Sarees: The Art of Artistry
In Phulia, West Bengal also known as the heart of Jamdani saree, I witnessed firsthand the painstaking yet beautiful process of creating these timeless pieces. The process of craftmanship proves the beauty of West Bengal. It also reflects the hard work and dedication of the artist of Phulia that makes the West Bengal more popular and famous.
Let’s talk about the hand dying of the threads, which the atom of the sarees. First Step of the making process starts with dying of the Thread. The workers used hand dye process and start weaving the thread in the handloom machine. The sarees made by hand and machine also, Jamdani sarees are woven with complex motifs and patterns, often depicting elements from nature or historical designs. The weavers use an intricate method where the motifs are woven into the fabric rather than printed, which is why each Jamdani saree is unique.
Definition of Jamdani Saree
This saree is a tradition that carry heritage of Bengal, this asree also known as Dhakai Jamdani saree. It is a traditional handwoven saree originating from Bengal, with its roots deeply embedded in the history and culture of the region. Its unique appeal lies in the elaborate design patterns woven into the fabric, often blending artistic motifs with rich history. This saree has been recognized by UNESCO and claimed it an intangible cultural heritage of Bengal.
What are the Materials Used in Jamdani Sarees
Several materials used in crafting the Jamdani Saree which provides beautiful look to women. The materials used in Jamdani sarees are typically fine cotton and silk threads, giving them their characteristic softness and luxurious finish. The combination of these materials allows the sarees to have a rich drape while maintaining a light feel. Some of the more premium Jamdani sarees are made from the finest mulberry silk, which enhances the fabric's sheen and texture.
What is the process of making jamdani sarees in Phulia
First step: Thread Preparation: The artisans start by preparing the cotton or silk threads, which are hand-dyed to achieve vibrant colors.
Second Step: Designing the Motif: The design is drafted manually, and the motifs are arranged according to the pattern that needs to be woven.
Third Process: Weaving: Using a handloom, the artisan weaves the saree by intertwining the threads in a unique manner to form the motifs. This can take anywhere between 3 to 10 days, depending on the complexity of the design.
Forth Steps: Finishing Touches: The saree is then washed and pressed, ensuring that it’s free of impurities and ready for sale.
Now, talk about the look of Jamdani Saree:
The jamdani sarees are known for their intricate designs, which are often made up of geometric shapes, floral patterns, or even motifs inspired by historical events. The pallu (the end part of the saree) is typically rich in motifs, and the body of the saree features delicate patterns. The fabric has a natural sheen and is lightweight, which makes it ideal for various occasions—from weddings to festivals.
Price Range of Jamdani Sarees
The price of a Jamdani saree can vary significantly depending on the quality of the material used, the intricacy of the design, and the time taken to weave the saree. On average, Jamdani sarees start from around ₹3,000 and can go up to ₹50,000 or more for the most luxurious and complex designs. A Dhakai Jamdani saree—known for its unique finesse—might command a higher price, particularly in international markets. In Phulia, you can get the saree from Phulia around ₹250 and above. Different designs are created and soft Jamdani are popular in the Phulia Market. Variety colours are available in the category of soft Dhakai, it feels very light and body hugging for a person.
The Popularity and Market of Jamdani Sarees
In Phulia, Jamdani sarees have gained tremendous popularity not just in India but globally. Their unique combination of tradition, artistry, and timeless appeal makes them a sought-after piece, particularly among collectors and fashion-conscious individuals.
- Sales of Jamdani Sarees in West Bengal: West Bengal remains the hub of Jamdani saree production. Phulia, Shantipur, and Murshidabad are some of the key regions known for their weaving centers. According to recent statistics, the market for handwoven sarees in West Bengal has been growing steadily, with Jamdani sarees making up a significant portion of the textile sales in the region. The total sales of Jamdani sarees in West Bengal for 2023 were estimated at ₹1,500 crore, with a projected annual growth rate of 7-10%.
- Export of Jamdani Sarees: Phulia sarees and other Jamdani sarees are now a major export product from India. The global demand for these sarees is increasing, especially in countries like the United States, the United Kingdom, and the Middle East. In fact, exports of Jamdani sarees from Phulia reached ₹200 crore in the last year, with the export market growing at an annual rate of 12-15%.
How Parthi Added Value to the Jamdani Saree Industry?
At Parthi, our mission has always been to bring the timeless elegance of traditional handwoven textiles, like the Jamdani saree, to a global audience while ensuring that we add value at every step. Here's how we've contributed to the growth and recognition of Jamdani sarees:
- Make a collaboration with local artist: Parthi works directly with Phulia’s skilled weavers, building long-term relationships with them to ensure that their artistry continues to thrive. By providing fair wages and promoting transparency, we are helping to sustain this craft and ensure that the artisans benefit economically.
- Searching the unique Design: We understand that while tradition is important, adapting the designs to contemporary preferences is key. Parthi blends modern aesthetics with classic Jamdani saree patterns to cater to a broader audience. Whether it's through creating lighter, more versatile versions of the saree or experimenting with new color palettes, Parthi bridges the gap between tradition and modern fashion.
- Innovation: By incorporating cutting-edge technology for quality control, we ensure that each saree meets global standards. Whether it’s selecting the best quality cotton or silk or making sure the weaving is flawless, Parthi ensures that the Jamdani sarees we offer are of superior quality.
- Reach to the global market: Through our e-commerce platform and collaborations with international designers, Parthi has helped the Jamdani saree find a space in international markets. Our efforts have led to Jamdani sarees being worn by global influencers, celebrities, and connoisseurs of traditional craftsmanship.
- The art of sustainability: At Parthi, we prioritize sustainability in every aspect of our business. The Jamdani sarees we produce are made with eco-friendly dyes, and our supply chain practices ensure minimal environmental impact. We are committed to keeping the craft alive in a way that benefits both the artisans and the planet.
By staying true to our roots while embracing innovation, Parthi has been able to elevate the Jamdani saree industry, ensuring its continued relevance in the modern fashion world.
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